April the 17th 2019, fine day for travelling up by train to Kyle of Lochalsh to begin another bike pack adventure from KoL to Inverness via Skye, Glenelg, Arnisdale, Invergarry, Fort Augustus and home to Inverness via the South of Loch Ness. The bags had been packed, the bike was taking a deep breath at yet again being asked to burden not only my weight but the bike packing weight too, I could almost here it groan as I took my first sit on the saddle, only 120 odd miles to go! I met Pete at the station in Inverness, he was brimming with enthusiasm and smelling of coffee, I wish I’d liked coffee as no doubt the caffeine would hit the spot. Train journey to Kyle and the weather was glorious, we seem to just get that bit of luck on these journeys and we were not complaining!
The first day was pretty exciting, get the train, bike over to Skye and hit the Glenelg ferry at Kylerhea, a small refreshment at the Glenelg Inn and bike over the road to Arnisdale for a wild camp next to the sea facing over towards the Cuillins, pure bliss.
As we climbed the Bealach Udal (the pass of distress) 279m high, we could see the mainland of Glenelg and the 550m narrow from which we would cross via a small turntable ferry, this pass in calm waters had been used to cross cattle from Skye to the mainland traditionally, to be sold at markets in the lowlands. The ride down into Kylerhea was a speed sensation and the ferry crossing was great fun, next stop, the pub!
The climb and climb and eh climb out of Glenelg was slightly more cumbersome mainly due to the 3 pints of local ale from Dun Brewing Micro Brewery it seemed fitting as the pint was poured from a tap that had a monkey on a bike, ‘Pub Tourette’s’ indeed. At this point I won’t mention the other three bottles of beer that had been crammed into each of our back packs (oops you only live once). Onwards and upwards until the drop down into Arnisdale, it was simply breathtaking as the sun glistened against the sea and the hills seemed to pour aimlessly into the ocean. We had decided this was fitting and set up camp, ticks aside it was breathtaking and we relaxed on the beach, beer in hand, fire bristling and a sun set to die for!
The next morning we woke to almost silence it was so quiet and only a small fishing boat in the distance could be heard trundling out to sea. A quick de-rig of camp, a brew and snack then we were off, ten miles of off road up and over the pass from Arnisdale through to Kinlochourn, plenty of effort to get us there but some enjoyable if slightly sketchy stone chipped rough terrain to navigate down into the start of our 22mile road through to Loch Garry. A head wind met us on the road and the slog to eat away the miles to Invergarry began.
Arriva Invergarry after a fair trek over the 22 mile road, food and water at the Invergarry Hotel and then only 6 miles or so to Fort Augustus and another wild camp this time on the banks of LochNess.
Friday morning we awoke to the many varieties of birds near our camp, it was a glorious sunrise and the Loch was mirror like, perfectly still and at one with its surroundings. The climb up up and away out of Fort Augustus would take us a couple of hours and the views from the summit where yet again unbelievable.
Our last leg would be from Foyers to Inverness up past the trail of the 7 lochs and the fair headed boys pass another climb but worthwhile to reach our final section alongside Loch Duntelchaig via Loch Ashie and a 4 mile drop down into Inverness. Myself and Pete had yet again paired up successfully as a great team, putting up with and motivating each other through various tests of character and fatigue but not to be defeated, well done to the both of us and as ever, looking forward to our next adventure. Scotland never ceases to amaze me as to its beauty in such a large way but seems small enough to enjoy for a challenge of adventure.
Sunrise over the east of scotland.
WeeManWilderness 